PX This presents THE F&F REVIEW
Hey, sorry we couldn’t make it to "Friends&Family," we were out of town/ had to work/ not invited. We’re really glad we finally managed to come by, though— it’s so nice to see you!
What’s that? You would still like us to take the time to fill out the F&F survey, because you’d love to take advantage of all our vast experience, knowledge, insight, and expertise as long as we’re already here? Because you invited 75 people to F&F, and afterward all you got was 41 "Congrats[es]!" 22 "Awesome[s]!" 3 "Ciao[s]!" and 9 "Best of luck[s]!" ?
Of course, we’d be honored. Oh ha, yesss, we’ll be honest— brutally honest even, ha ha! After all, that’s what friends & family are for!
No no please, don’t send anything more, we’re stuffed, we can’t breathe, you’ll have to roll us out of here, ha ha ha… !
What was your first impression?
Cute! Simple and cozy. Aww, and look, it’s Enzo (which is pretty much the only reason we busted out the passport for this haul up to the UES). Sigh, Sant Ambroeus just isn’t the same without him.
Please rate the Bar:
Nice. Spacious and welcoming. We’d have given it a whirl, but Enzo’s just too efficient…
Please rate the drinks/ cocktails/ wine:
We opted for wine— oh wait, oops! Is there even an ABC license here? Judging by the name of the place, I’d have guessed no, buuut looking at the photos again, it looks like there is some hard booze up in this joint after all. What? Sorry!
Whatever, the wine is good. We had a Pinot Nero that Enzo recommended. Maybe you should too.
Please rate the Dining Room:
It’s remarkably comfortable considering the spare layout. The deuce booths are kinda nice.
Please rate the BOH:
Very good. I know you won’t believe me cuz you’ll think I’m just being nice cuz I’m an F.O.E. (Friend of Enzo), but seriously— it was very good. Better than Sant Ambroeus. Really truly. No exaggeration, it was actually very reminiscent of the last really great Italian meal I had, and I swear I’m not just saying that just to be agreeable. (Come on, with all my acquaintances in the biz, have I ever resorted to hyperbole? No, never.)
How was the staff?
Well, there are a couple familiar faces up in here, all right. What can I say? I thought they were great. But I know, I know, easy for me to say, rolling PX all night long through this muhfuh.
How’s this— I’m more than willing to bet they don’t suck in general.
What did you eat?/ How was the food?
Fritto misto : Very good. Dude, paper-thin vegetable slices that are then lightly battered and quickly deep-fried, along with fresh, tender, and crisp calamari? Exceptional.
Porchetta : Uhh, no seriously. Somebody is having a ball with the super duper professional meat slicer they must have stashed away in the basement prep area somewhere. You can practically see through this meat. Pretty perfect.
Tagliata and arugula salad : Excellent. Perfectly cooked and succulent steak. Great simple traditional arugula and grape tomato presentation. So good, you can’t believe it’s carb-free.
Papardelle with salsiccia: Saved the best description for last. Uh muh gah, sooo delicious. Again— paper-thin papardelle! Okay, call me crazy, but they can’t possibly be sliding the homemade pasta through that hi-fi slicer gadget too, can they?! No really, how the heck do you make a papardelle this thin and light? Is that a stupid question, I don’t know, I’m not a chef. But, I do know I have never ever ever loved a papardelle this much (I’m a capellini girl, what can I tell ya). The sausage too, is perfectly executed, hearty and rich, but not greasy in any way. And that aroma is mouth-watering. Fine, maybe it’s touch of truffle oil, so shoot them. Plus a bit of mushroom and garlic and, aye…! [Lift hand, turn palm upward, wave in circular motion.] Yup, that about says it all.
Would I travel all the way to the UES for this? I am solemnly starting to consider it.
What did you like?
The food was really very good.
What did you dislike?
The UES? Rilly?
What was your last impression?
Honestly? That goodfella looking dude in that banquette yonder is totally sweating me. Hey, you asked.
Would you come back?
Maybe next week? (DeLucie’s Crown is next, and that’s just a couple blocks over.)
Thank you, and hope to see you soon!
Thank you, it was a pleasure.
* * * * *
Have you heard?
Until the release of PX Me (Spring 2012), this website will henceforth be updated only intermittently (approximately once or twice a week).
Abbe Diaz’s new (daily) blog is now at: abbediaz.com
Earthquake – Petite Sirah 2006 – Lodi, California
Cost: $23.99/Bottle
This is pure, dark, opaque-purple, full-bodied, velvety smooth and rich, layered to be exact as it coats the palate with its creamy milky texture. The aromatics from initial opening (and for about 30 minutes) is phenomenal; its roasted coffee, caramel, and cocoa seduces you, transforming toward its black cherry and blackberry core, all the while offering hints of pure vanilla and coffee. Very full flavors where black cherry, cocoa and vanilla reigns supreme. An uncommon bottle with great appeal that is well-priced for the masses. Well bought indeed.
Rating: 94
Doña Paula – Seleccion de Bodega, 2006, Malbec – Argentina
Cost: $29.99/bottle
Wow! Here is a dark purple brute of a wine, with an amazing concentration of fruit and unbelievably rich, decadent and velvety texture that seriously grapples your palate and overwhelms the senses. The aromatics are out of this world, showcasing black cherries and blueberries with complex accents of mocha, espresso, dark chocolate and just a hint of charred oak. Follow that up with a smooth tarp of flavors that just blanket the palate with enormous blue and black fruit— always hinting at the bittersweet German chocolate and mocha notes— and you have a winner here. It is an amazing find for under $30, and this Doña Paula has certainly caught my eye for a quick six-bottle purchase to track with much enjoyment in the future. It’s tasting mighty good today, but the sheer expression of fruit above the deep but supple tannins should promise good drinking over the next 5 to 8 years. In this day and age and current economic times, this under $30 find is more than up to the task of competing with wines costing in the 3 figure range. Bravo to Doña Paula for fashioning something affordable and classic at the same time.
Rating: 94
Antinori Solaia 1997 – Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Franc – Tuscany, Italy
Cost: $85/bottle purchased in early 2000 (vintage 2006 currently about $175/bottle)
Amazingly dark ruby/purple color for a slowly maturing wine that is 12 years off the vine. Full-bodied and rather inky in texture. The nose is slow to emerge, almost as if it’s still quietly waking up after resting about 9 years in my wine cellar. The Solaia performed exceptionally well (but only after about 40 minutes of aeration) offering a bouquet of blackberries, black currants, premium cigar tobacco, sandalwood, and licorice. But its true calling in life and overall quality seem to show more in its huge concentration of fruit, most notable on the mid-palate, backed by a wall of tannins. Clearly this wine is still youthful and its structure is just barely allowing consumption at this stage, and only with plenty of air time in the glass. This wine could have benefited enormously from decanting, but I admit I was remiss.
Rating: 92
Twomey 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir – Sonoma, CA
Cost: $42/bottle
From the fine folks out in Alexander Valley (Silver Oak)— they have produced another label called Twomey for some years now, and this is my first taste of their pinot noir. The color is a transparent ruby, light to medium-bodied, almost appearing very dilute or even a bit like a rosé. The Twomey’s bouquet is generous however, with nice raspberry and cherry fruit, and heavy toasted oak reminding me of Perugina chocolate cherry cordials. It is an alluring aroma one cannot help keep sniffing. In the mouth, it is certainly light on its fruit and the cherry/raspberry aromatics are consistent in the flavor profile, with good glycerine and alcohol in check. Virtually no tannins, but it is the balanced acidity that provides the structural integrity to the wine. For a 2008 vintage, this wine is certainly young, but I doubt it will get any better than it is today. Seems to me it was built for immediate consumption. For $42 a bottle, don’t cellar this; drink it right away to get your money’s worth.
Rating: 88
* * * * *
Have you heard?
Until the release of PX Me (Summer 2011), this website will henceforth be updated only intermittently (approximately once or twice a week).
Abbe Diaz’s new (daily) blog is now at: abbediaz.com
Chateau Pichon Longueville 1995 Bordeaux – Pauillac, France
Cost: $105/bottle (purchased in 1998)
Here is a 2nd growth Bordeaux from a chateau with an excellent history of developing great wines that are age-worthy; when they reach their peak, it lasts for decades. It’s been about 15 years since the great vintage of 1995, and the Pichon Longueville was stunning from its open. Aromas of lead pencil, polished leather, black cassis, plums, dry-roasted walnuts, and roasted espresso beans. The velvety fruit revealing mature cassis flavor slid effortlessly across the mid-palate with good weight and density. The tannins are firm and the alcohol unnoticeable, allowing the fruit (with just the right level of grippy acidity) to come forth, making this wine so easy to drink. Slow down and enjoy the bouquet… ahhh… this is good juice. A nice mature Bordeaux, and although most claret lovers might find this wine a bit young, I think it has developed well, with a great complex nose but still plenty of baby-fat fruit to impress the palate. Back that with a long finish and you have a winner. Delicious!
Rating: 98
Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon – Alexander Valley, Sonoma
Cost: $40/bottle (restaurant retail)
I happened to stumble across this Rodney Strong Cabernet, and it was fairly good. Aromas of toasted vanilla bean blended with sweet oak; a slight hint of confectionary sugar sprinkled over black currants and anise is a nice touch. In the mouth, medium-bodied and silky smooth, with plenty of consistent flavor to back it up. They did a great job for this label in 2007; this bottle probably retails for about $20 at your local wine shop, and it’s a particularly good value for this Alexander Valley cabernet.
Rating: 88
Two Hands – Angels Share Shiraz 2007 – McLaren Vale, Australia
Cost: $25/bottle (as part of a Vosges Dark Chocolate gift box)
Thick velvety dark opaque purple wine, a rich decadent milkshake-like wine oozing with so much viscosity. Notes of black cherry, chocolate cake, black raspberry, with strong mocha in aroma and flavor. I almost feel guilty drinking this; it’s like dessert in a glass. Dark chocolate morsels made by Vosges are a great accompaniment to this dry red— although granted, I would likely enjoy this particular shiraz with a nice juicy porterhouse steak more. A fine offering made by the folks at Two Hands.
Rating: 90
Roy Estate Vineyard, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Napa Valley, California
Cost: $101/bottle
A browse through a convenient small wine and beer shop (located in an Ocean City, Maryland Hilton Hotel) revealed a rare bottle from Roy, a “garagiste” (or rather, a premium “cult” wine)— a bit steeply priced at about $20 above the winery-direct charge, but worth checking out anyway.
This was dark purple, full-bodied and velvety, with a voluptuous external appearance and texture. Sexy and smooth with aromatics that combined black currants, confectionary sugar-powdered donuts, and vanilla crème, with a marvelous leathery complexity. With some swirling (and just over the one-hour mark), notes of mild mocha emerge. It’s really quite amazing to sniff… with a great layered mouthfeel exhibiting perfect levels of glycerine and a density in the fruit that just wraps the palate. A full 45-second finish with lingering currants, black cherry, and vanilla makes you want to come back for more. It’s easy to take shots at more expensive wines, but this one is packed with the quality and panache that come with a premium worth every cent. A solid serious cabernet from Roy.
Rating: 94
Dry Creek Valley – Endeavor Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Cost: App. $50/bottle
Lush fruit— currants, black berries, and blueberries, along with graham cracker pie crust and toasted oak, with a touch of smoke and dark chocolate. Layered in the mouth, a long decadent finish, a joy to sniff and of course to taste. Accompanied with an artisanal cheese plate followed with filet mignon, this wine has a voluptuous body that keeps giving on both the mid and back
palates. Wow.
Rating: 94
(Worth looking for; only 749 cases made. May be tough to find but worth the search.)
Barkan Cabernet Sauvignon – Altitude Series 2005 – Galil, Israel
Cost: $49/Bottle
Wow! Who would have thought a wine like this could be made in Israel (and Kosher to boot)? This wine is unbelievable. Dark, rich, ruby in color, full-bodied, with an inky texture loaded with black fruits, currants, and black raspberries, saddled with espresso, toasted oak, and anise. The flavor complements the consistent aromatic sensation. This is quite a surprise to me— a quintessential cabernet from Israel. Awesome. (And did I mention it’s Kosher?)
Rating: 95
PX This presents THE F&F REVIEW
Hey, sorry we couldn’t make it to "Friends&Family," we were out of town/ had to work/ not invited. We’re really glad we finally managed to come by, though— it’s so nice to see you!
What’s that? You would still like us to take the time to fill out the F&F survey, because you’d love to take advantage of all our vast experience, knowledge, insight, and expertise as long as we’re already here? Because you invited 75 people to F&F, and afterward all you got was 41 "Congrats[es]!" 22 "Awesome[s]!" 3 "Ciao[s]!" and 9 "Best of luck[s]!" ?
Of course, we’d be honored. Oh ha, yesss, we’ll be honest— brutally honest even, ha ha! After all, that’s what friends & family are for!
No no please, don’t send anything more, we’re stuffed, we can’t breathe, you’ll have to roll us out of here, ha ha ha… !
What was your first impression?
Well, we got… fish… pasta… pizza… meat… and vegetables. Hmm. OK, meat it is.
Please rate the Bar:
Not bad. Spacious, sort of welcoming, relatively comfortable.
Best of all it’s seat-yourself ("Excuse me, would you mind moving over one seat so we can sit down together? Thanks."), which is great, because apparently this small army of hostesses at the desk here is of absolutely no help at all.
Please rate the drinks/ cocktails/ wine:
Cocktails are N/A. As for the wine— oh, lookee here. Plenty of Bastianich varieties to choose from! What a surprise. And… huh… kind of expennnsive….
Please rate the Dining Room:
Uh… PASS. I mean: it’s in a grocery. What exactly are you expecting, anyway?
Please rate the BOH:
Sigh. Short version? It’s eh.
Good thing they don’t have like 10,000 other Italian commercial kitchens in down/mid-town to compete with! [/sarcasm]
How was the staff?
The waitress was nice. A little harried but nice. Seems like it’s been a long day for her. Too bad it’s only 6:30PM…
What did you eat?/ How was the food?
Sweetbreads : Oi. Dry. A bit chewy. Pretty bland. Uh yea, if this is a high point, we’re in trouble…
Warm Ribeye Cap Salad : Better. Tender and succulent. Perfectly cooked. But really, $18 for these two tiny slices? I mean, you’ve got to be kidding.
Salumi Plate : Is that it? Seriously? Two paper-thin slices of four varieties? For $21? OK, all joking aside, how in the hell do they justify these prices? Because, correct me if I’m wrong, but are they not cutting out a decent amount of overhead? I mean at the very least, this is not a storefront space, and the meat has to be delivered from a distance of all about what— nine feet away?
And no, sorry— the quality definitely does not account for this pricetag.
What did you like?
That it’s so close to Nuela. Hey, what can I say? I’ve heard some very good things about it. And after spending $120 on three dishes and two glasses of wine here, yes, I’m still hungry.
What did you dislike?
Aside from just about everything?
What was your last impression?
Is she serious?!
No really, this hostess was of absolutely no assistance prior. She couldn’t be bothered to address us when we found seats for ourselves. She clearly couldn’t have cared less about our dining experience. And evidently was paying so little attention to us, she didn’t see us paying our bill despite our being situated three feet in front of the podium.
But she has the audacity to chase us halfway out the grocery to inquire if we’ve paid our check.
Mmhmp, oh yeah. I’m impressed all right.
Would you come back?
No.
Thank you, and hope to see you soon!
Not unless you’re coming across the street with me.
Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2007 – Sonoma County California
Cost: $22.99/Bottle
Light pewter in color, medium-bodied, nice genuine notes of grapefruit, wet stones, and lemon rind on the nose. In the mouth, tart and dry, good balance, refreshing and light on the palate with slightly diluted but consistent flavors of grapefruit and minerals.
Rating: 86
Simi Chardonnay 2007 – Sonoma California
Cost: 19.99/Bottle
A dry chardonnay that hints at juiciness— with its buttery oak, honeydew, pear, and tropical fruit aromas. It’s moderately full-bodied with consistent pears, fruity flavors, and minerals that flow quite nicely with a zingy acidity that puckers the upper section of your mouth. A slightly short and dry finish, but that’s fine for the value of this Sonoma chardonnay.
Rating: 87
Matua Valley – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008, Marlborough, New Zealand
Cost: app. $16 to $18 / bottle
One of the hidden gems in the world of dry white wines can easily include the sauvignon blanc, and New Zealand is well known for producing fine examples. This Matua Valley was quite simply… awesome. This is crisp, light to medium-bodied, with a slight pewter in color. The aromas and flavors that dominated the entire time were a refreshing array of grapefruit, lime, and just a suggestion of lemongrass. Went very well with the summery cuisine I enjoyed alongside this wine of excellent value.
Rating: 90
Clos La Coutale 2007 – Cahors, France (dry red wine)
Cost: $10/Bottle
Browsing at a wine store, they give this bottle to me and say, “just try it and see what you think.” At $10/bottle, how could I go wrong? And I certainly didn’t. It does indeed have good value with its dark opaque purple color and medium-bodied package— but with its rich color, it really looks heavier. Its nose is dark cassis, cherry preserves, herbs, menthol, with a slight hint of heat that gives it a sherry-like fragrance. It remains smooth and firmly tannic on the palate. A dry finish, suggesting a little age would help this come along, with a good level of fruit that could meld better with time. I don’t believe I have ever had a wine from the Cahors region in France, but this truly looks promising.
Rating: 87
(I may pick up 2 or 3 bottles and allow it to rest on its side for a year. Will report on its progress over time…)
PX This presents THE F&F REVIEW
Hey, sorry we couldn’t make it to "Friends&Family," we were out of town/ had to work/ not invited. We’re really glad we finally managed to come by, though— it’s so nice to see you!
What’s that? You would still like us to take the time to fill out the F&F survey, because you’d love to take advantage of all our vast experience, knowledge, insight, and expertise as long as we’re already here? Because you invited 75 people to F&F, and afterward all you got was 41 "Congrats[es]!" 22 "Awesome[s]!" 3 "Ciao[s]!" and 9 "Best of luck[s]!" ?
Of course, we’d be honored. Oh ha, yesss, we’ll be honest— brutally honest even, ha ha! After all, that’s what friends & family are for!
No no please, don’t send anything more, we’re stuffed, we can’t breathe, you’ll have to roll us out of here, ha ha ha… !
What was your first impression?
Cute.
Please rate the Bar:
Fine. Spacious, welcoming, comfortable, clean. And the bartender is affable and enthusiastic enough, if not exactly meticulous.
Please rate the drinks/ cocktails/ wine:
Good. Decent assortment of wine, unless you take seriously into account the vintners "are all women" (their first names even appear on the list alongside the description of their offerings). Not quite sure how those women feel about their wines being served in rocks glasses, but I guess you’ll have to ask them. Drink prices by the glass are "tasting" size; bottle prices are fair-ish, all relatively square in the mid-range. A bit more diversity would have been nice (especially for a "wine bar"), but the good bones are there; maybe they’ll expand eventually.
The cocktail list (not on the menu but on the wall behind you) is all classics, but the execution is proficient.
Please rate the Dining Room:
Also cute. Imaginative and creative. Nice use of spare square footage. Cozy and casual but not cramped.
Please rate the BOH:
N/A; technically the BOH is in the FOH.
And uh, it’s… uh… "not a restaurant," remember? Definitely keep that in mind.
How was the staff?
Satisfactory. Both of them. Ha ha.
What did you eat?/ How was the food?
San Daniele with homemade breadsticks : OK. Personally, I’m not a particularly huge fan of the San Daniele, but it’s adequate enough. Great for nibbling/drinking.
Melanzane with Goat Cheese : Not bad. Is it made in a toaster oven? That would be kind of impressive I suppose.
Polpette : Uhh… yeah. This one needs a re-think. And they know why, come on now. If I say any more than that, I would need a consultation fee.
But just an illustration, I no longer have any confidence/interest in ordering the crab cakes or vegetable lasagna, both of which I had been considering. Next time (if there’s a next time), I’ll likely stick to the cheese and salumi.
What did you like?
The location. The ambience. And the wine (I tried four varietals) was pretty good.
What did you dislike?
Oi, those meatballs…
What was your last impression?
… and what’s with the music?
Would you come back?
Sigh. Maybe…
Thank you, and hope to see you soon!
Thanks and best of luck.
= "personne extraordinaire"